We left Mysore on the 6 am bus and arrived in the busy city of Hassan about 9:30. It is difficult for us to take these crowded buses with our backpacks which we take inside the crowded buses. We sat in the back of the bus with our packs on our laps, next to a very nice Indian family, a teacher, his wife and two lovely daughters about 10-12 years old. They said they were traveling to Hassan for their daughter to receive an award for some drawings. The father was very proud. In Hassan we found a hotel (barely meeting our minimum standards) and took a bus ride in the afternoon to see the fabulous temples and ruins at Belur and Halabid. These Hindu civilizations had their heyday in the 11th to 14th centuries. They are very impressive with much extremely detailed, intrikit sculptures of different gods and goddesses and animals such as elephants and cobras. There were many school children here on excursions.
The next day we left Hassan by bus and arrived in Madikeri about 4 hours later. Madikeri is a town in the Kodava (semi-independent) coffee growing region that borders on the Ghats mountain range that runs along the western edge of southern India. This small city has a great climate since it lies at about 3000 feet elevation. The food in this region is non-vegetarian. Our first week in India we only ate vegetarian food. In fact, in our hotel in Mysore, a sign said meat products were prohibited from entering the premises.
Today we took a taxi a few miles and walked the rest of the way to a waterfall. On the way back, walking up the quiet road, we hitched a ride with a young Indian couple driving a fancy car. The young man was a businessman from Bangalore and his young wife was very dressed up. They offered to take us with them to see some temples in another town about 30 miles from Madikari. They stopped at a park by a waterfall and river, but the young woman did not want to get out of the car with us. We wonder if it was because we were not appropriately dressed since we were wearing shorts or because of some quarrel they were having. After that, we returned to Madikeri by bus.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Days in Mysore, India
This is our second day in Mysore which is a three hour bus ride west of Bangalore in south India. We are staying in a comfortable but inexpensive hotel a bit away from the noisy, crowded city center and we are especially enjoying the delicious vegetarian Indian food offered in our hotel’s restaurant.
Today we took a three wheeled taxi to see some old ruins and temples outside of the city. On the way back we asked the driver to stop at a coconut stand beside the road in order to quench our thirst. I noticed a dirt road, almost a path, going away from the paved road we were on, so we decided to take a walk and see where it led to. This small road went along a river bank. It was a very peaceful scene as we observed the people working the land with oxen and doing other work. We observed some bid life along the river and saw the small houses the people resided in.
At the temples and tourist places we have visited the hawkers can be aggressive as they swarm around you and don't give up until you buy something or walk away. One of them would not give up on me until I finally bought a small wooden elephant he wanted me to buy. The beggars can also be very assertive. The good thing is that away from the sellers the people are very friendly and we feel very safe walking around India, but of course you better still be vigilant about your stuff. Also, the three wheeled motorized taxis are very cheap and many people speak English, so we can get around easily.
A while ago we saw a school. Entering the gate, we met with some teachers (all women) and they invited us to come back for an evening ceremony at the school. We went back that evening to witness the open air event with families and their children. It was nice to see the parents’ interest and participation and also the presence of so many girls who make up half the student body. It was a program with speeches promoting the importance of education and cultural events. Instruction at this school (financed by the National India Rail Company) is in English, but I have a hard time understanding most Indians as we speak a different dialect of English. The school was originally only for children of railway workers but is now open to anyone (if you can pay).
Today we took a three wheeled taxi to see some old ruins and temples outside of the city. On the way back we asked the driver to stop at a coconut stand beside the road in order to quench our thirst. I noticed a dirt road, almost a path, going away from the paved road we were on, so we decided to take a walk and see where it led to. This small road went along a river bank. It was a very peaceful scene as we observed the people working the land with oxen and doing other work. We observed some bid life along the river and saw the small houses the people resided in.
At the temples and tourist places we have visited the hawkers can be aggressive as they swarm around you and don't give up until you buy something or walk away. One of them would not give up on me until I finally bought a small wooden elephant he wanted me to buy. The beggars can also be very assertive. The good thing is that away from the sellers the people are very friendly and we feel very safe walking around India, but of course you better still be vigilant about your stuff. Also, the three wheeled motorized taxis are very cheap and many people speak English, so we can get around easily.
A while ago we saw a school. Entering the gate, we met with some teachers (all women) and they invited us to come back for an evening ceremony at the school. We went back that evening to witness the open air event with families and their children. It was nice to see the parents’ interest and participation and also the presence of so many girls who make up half the student body. It was a program with speeches promoting the importance of education and cultural events. Instruction at this school (financed by the National India Rail Company) is in English, but I have a hard time understanding most Indians as we speak a different dialect of English. The school was originally only for children of railway workers but is now open to anyone (if you can pay).
Monday, January 19, 2009
India - first comments
January 19
India - first comments
On Friday, January 16, Ana and I flew from Bangkok to Calcutta, a two and a half hour flight. We arrived about 11 am. Faced with a 6 hour wait till our connecting flight to Bangalore, we hired a taxi to take us to the center of Calcutta to do some sight-seeing. As we drove from the airport, we observed constantly honking traffic, people everywhere, some really terrible living conditions, and a lot of dust, polluted air and garbage on the streets and in the nearby canal. Traffic was so bad it took us about an hour to go just 5 miles. When the driver estimated another 1 1/2 hours to get to the Victoria Palace in the city center, we told him to return to the airport, fearing that we might lose our connecting flight, and spent the afternoon in the airport. Arriving in Bangalore about 9 pm, we took a bus to a guest house where our friends had reserved a room for us in Bangalore. The ride took about an hour and a half and we were let off on a busy street. Completely lost, we had to show several people our hotel address and walk many blocks with all our baggage (we each are carrying a backpack and a smaller bag). It made us nervous to be walking around in some poor neighborhoods around 11 at night with all our baggage, too. We finally located our small guest house in a quiet residential neighborhood and rang the bell. A polite young man came to the door and let us in. We were dead tired. Many strangers on the streets had been helpful to us, as strange looking to them as we must have been.
In the morning, the kind and helpful young man at the residence went to bring us a delicious South Indian breakfast. The breakfast consisted of idly (a spongy, very light cake made of millet (I think), a spicy vegetable tomato based soup, and a kind of puree made with coconut. It all tasted great.
Bangalore, a fast growing city of 7 million, is one of the centers of India's computer industry. Here we observed horrendous traffic, and much visible poverty as well as some more affluent zones. We also observed the construction of an elevated metro system. We enjoyed our two days in Bangalore, visiting some sights and getting to know the city and our middle class friends, who are the in-laws of our good friends in S.F.
I wonder if the religious devotion so evident in India is a hindrance to progress regarding the serious health, population control and ecological issues India needs to solve. Today in the paper, it was announced that over 1 million India children die yearly, a shocking statistic. Yet India's growing middle class, now 10 to 20 % of the population, seems materialistic and preoccupied with living "the good life". This combination of religious fundamentalism, consumerism in the middle class alongside a democratic political structure (but not a true democracy), reminds me of the U.S. In the papers here there seems to be quite a bit of anti-Pakistan sentiment stoked by the recent terrorist attack in Mumbai. In fact, this seems to be the issue that is most discussed in the India media, rather than the problems of class and caste exploitation and environmental problems.
I bought a book in a wonderful little book store in the Calcutta airport by Krushent Sinh, a famous and prolific India author/philosopher/ex-politician, who is an agnostic and quite critical of Indian society and raises these kinds of issues.
India - first comments
On Friday, January 16, Ana and I flew from Bangkok to Calcutta, a two and a half hour flight. We arrived about 11 am. Faced with a 6 hour wait till our connecting flight to Bangalore, we hired a taxi to take us to the center of Calcutta to do some sight-seeing. As we drove from the airport, we observed constantly honking traffic, people everywhere, some really terrible living conditions, and a lot of dust, polluted air and garbage on the streets and in the nearby canal. Traffic was so bad it took us about an hour to go just 5 miles. When the driver estimated another 1 1/2 hours to get to the Victoria Palace in the city center, we told him to return to the airport, fearing that we might lose our connecting flight, and spent the afternoon in the airport. Arriving in Bangalore about 9 pm, we took a bus to a guest house where our friends had reserved a room for us in Bangalore. The ride took about an hour and a half and we were let off on a busy street. Completely lost, we had to show several people our hotel address and walk many blocks with all our baggage (we each are carrying a backpack and a smaller bag). It made us nervous to be walking around in some poor neighborhoods around 11 at night with all our baggage, too. We finally located our small guest house in a quiet residential neighborhood and rang the bell. A polite young man came to the door and let us in. We were dead tired. Many strangers on the streets had been helpful to us, as strange looking to them as we must have been.
In the morning, the kind and helpful young man at the residence went to bring us a delicious South Indian breakfast. The breakfast consisted of idly (a spongy, very light cake made of millet (I think), a spicy vegetable tomato based soup, and a kind of puree made with coconut. It all tasted great.
Bangalore, a fast growing city of 7 million, is one of the centers of India's computer industry. Here we observed horrendous traffic, and much visible poverty as well as some more affluent zones. We also observed the construction of an elevated metro system. We enjoyed our two days in Bangalore, visiting some sights and getting to know the city and our middle class friends, who are the in-laws of our good friends in S.F.
I wonder if the religious devotion so evident in India is a hindrance to progress regarding the serious health, population control and ecological issues India needs to solve. Today in the paper, it was announced that over 1 million India children die yearly, a shocking statistic. Yet India's growing middle class, now 10 to 20 % of the population, seems materialistic and preoccupied with living "the good life". This combination of religious fundamentalism, consumerism in the middle class alongside a democratic political structure (but not a true democracy), reminds me of the U.S. In the papers here there seems to be quite a bit of anti-Pakistan sentiment stoked by the recent terrorist attack in Mumbai. In fact, this seems to be the issue that is most discussed in the India media, rather than the problems of class and caste exploitation and environmental problems.
I bought a book in a wonderful little book store in the Calcutta airport by Krushent Sinh, a famous and prolific India author/philosopher/ex-politician, who is an agnostic and quite critical of Indian society and raises these kinds of issues.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
the snake
We are now back in Pattaya after a 6 hour bus/ferry/bus trip back from Koh Chang. Two days ago Ana and I rode our motor bike to a park trailhead. We paid our 200 Baht each to enter and walked along the riverside trail 600 meters to observe the waterfall. The trail seemed to end, but behind a sign that said "no authorized access" we found an overgrown very steep trail heading up through thick forest. At times it was necessary to use our hands to pull us up the steep trail. It flattened out and we walked a while. Crossing a beautiful river, we continued for about an hour. Curiously we have seen almost no birdlife in Thailand; however, here we observed a beautiful bird with an orange and blue beak high in a tree, about the size of a small turkey. On our way back we stopped by the river to rest and place our feet in the cool clear water. Suddenly, I heard Ana gasp: look at the snake! The snake scurried under a rocky ledge before I could spot it. Ana said it was gray, about 8 feet long and as thick as my arm but flat. We wondered i fit was a cobra. Then we returned back down the trail, a little more alert after spotting that snake.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
visit to school
Yesterday we rented a motor scooter and we rode down the west side of the island of Ko Chang. The road was really hilly in some places and I almost lost control on a hairpin curve at the top of a very steep hill. On the way we found a rural elementary school and a day care center. We went to talk to the children and their teacher of the after school program. She was young and very friendly and she answered some questions. We communicated using gestures. We found out that the children were all different ages from three to twelve years old. We observed the children were relating to each other and playing so nice. The children seemed to be happy although they didn't have manipulatives or other toys. I noticed that there was only one teacher to attend to about 25 children.
What also caught our attention was the library and to see that there was no supervison there. There was a pile of books discarded on the floor and not being taken care of. The children were watching television and there was no librarian there or any adult supervising in the library.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Ko Chang Island
Yesterday we left 6 am, took two minivans, a pickup truck bus, a ferry and another pickup and now we are here in Ko Chang, a small mountainous, lush island off the East coast of Thailand. We are staying in a bungalow right on the sandy beach. The water are very calm and good for swimming. It is a tourist place, but rather mellow and quiet. Hope to do some hiking; the mountains look stunningly beautiful.
We can get Al Gazeera on our TV. It is the first time I have seen Al Gazeera. I think they do a very good job of counter balancing the biased account of Israel's assault and Islam/Middle East politics. If the American public would see this coverage it surely would sway public opinion to be more critical of Israel's position. I feel bad that I can not be part of the protest movement that I am connected to in San Francisco regarding the important struggles that are going on.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
First days
Ana and I began the journey by flying from San Francisco to Bangkok, Thailand. My wife and travel companion, Ana Fisher, is a part-time instructor in the Child Development Department of City College. We traveled for at least 25 hours including flight time and time at LAX and Narita airports before landing in Bangkok at midnight. We immediately took a one and a half hour taxi ride to Pattaya, where my brother lives. The taxi driver told us about the recent troubles in which anti-government demonstrators occupied the international airport for about 10 days and managed to force the President to step down. Our driver, not sympathetic to these protests, felt that the demonstrators (the “yellow shirts”) were against government programs to help the poor.
Our first day in Pattaya was restful and enjoyable since our hotel (called the Perfect Place) is tucked away in a quiet area. The weather is pleasant this time of year, upper 80s during the afternoon and pleasantly cool at night. Pattaya is a tourist city and a center of Thailand's legalized sex industry. Not officially legalized, I am told the police either own the brothels or are paid off. I am told that the women are happy they can make good money and can decide who they want to go with, but I haven’t actually spoken with any Thai women about this. Many come from the countryside and use their money to help their families or save it to purchase a house. Sometimes women try to pick me up as I walk down the street; there are many older men walking around with Asian women.
We can get Al Gazeera on our TV. It is the first time I have seen Al Gazeera. I think they do a very good job of counter balancing the biased account of Israel's occupation, the assault on Gaza and Middle East politics. If the American public would see this coverage it surely would sway public opinion to be more critical of Israel and the United States.
motor scooter adventures
Yesterday we decided to rent a motor scooter in order to go on an excursion outside the city. It was my first time driving on the left side of the road which was quite challenging. With Ana sitting in back, we drove through chaotic traffic on an unfamiliar motor scooter, but we made it OK out to the beautiful, peaceful countryside. We visited a Buddhist temple (the temple of truth) in a forest perched on a hill with a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside looking towards Pattaya and the sea. Surprisingly, there was no other visitors. In the evening, we drove downtown to Pattaya's busy waterfront promenade to check out the scene. However, on the way back to our hotel we got lost and drove all over for about 75 minutes trying to find our hotel. Not fun at 10 pm after a long day and suffering from jet lag.
Our first day in Pattaya was restful and enjoyable since our hotel (called the Perfect Place) is tucked away in a quiet area. The weather is pleasant this time of year, upper 80s during the afternoon and pleasantly cool at night. Pattaya is a tourist city and a center of Thailand's legalized sex industry. Not officially legalized, I am told the police either own the brothels or are paid off. I am told that the women are happy they can make good money and can decide who they want to go with, but I haven’t actually spoken with any Thai women about this. Many come from the countryside and use their money to help their families or save it to purchase a house. Sometimes women try to pick me up as I walk down the street; there are many older men walking around with Asian women.
We can get Al Gazeera on our TV. It is the first time I have seen Al Gazeera. I think they do a very good job of counter balancing the biased account of Israel's occupation, the assault on Gaza and Middle East politics. If the American public would see this coverage it surely would sway public opinion to be more critical of Israel and the United States.
motor scooter adventures
Yesterday we decided to rent a motor scooter in order to go on an excursion outside the city. It was my first time driving on the left side of the road which was quite challenging. With Ana sitting in back, we drove through chaotic traffic on an unfamiliar motor scooter, but we made it OK out to the beautiful, peaceful countryside. We visited a Buddhist temple (the temple of truth) in a forest perched on a hill with a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside looking towards Pattaya and the sea. Surprisingly, there was no other visitors. In the evening, we drove downtown to Pattaya's busy waterfront promenade to check out the scene. However, on the way back to our hotel we got lost and drove all over for about 75 minutes trying to find our hotel. Not fun at 10 pm after a long day and suffering from jet lag.
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